Martin: Selvage Raw

Black Cone

Regular price $425

Five years ago, I got a call from a guy from South Carolina who had two rolls of a kind of Cone selvage fabric I’d never seen before. Black Warp Selvage.

A denim that combines black warp yarns with natural undyed weft yarns. I grabbed ‘em up and sorta forgot about them. Recently I came across the rolls in our storage unit and I knew it was time.

I’ve never seen this denim anywhere else. Cone Mills is shut down. So, if they call out to you like they do to me, grab a pair while you can.

All Last Call Items Final Sale. 

  • 100% Cotton
  • Cone Mills White Oak denim
  • Button fly
  • Half-lined back pockets
  • Selvage detail at coin pocket + back belt loop
  • Hand-stamped, limited-edition, numbered black leather-patch
  • Hand-signed inside on front pockets
  • Signature red chainstitch hem, sewn on our Union Special 43200G
  • Made in the USA 
Our slimmest jean, the Martin has a tailored shape + tapered leg. 
13.5" leg opening, 10" front rise, 34" inseam 
Fits true to size. Take the next size down, if you are in between sizes.
This jean will stretch with wear. If you start them comfortably snug (or ever-so-slightly-uncomfortably-snug), they will stretch out to be the next size up + a perfect fit.

Custom fit your length here.

100% Cotton. Made in the USA. 
When it's time: Turn inside-out; Machine or hand wash cold separately; Do not bleach; Hang or lay flat to dry. 
For the very best break-in, we recommend 3-6 months of regular wear before washing. 

We recommend ordering a couple sizes and sending back what doesn't work to ensure you find the right fit.

We want you to love the way your Raleigh Denim garments fit. That’s why we offer free shipping and returns on all orders over $200. If you’re unsure of your size, order multiple. Send back the ones that don’t work for free. It’s easy. As always, contact us with any questions you have about fit.


All orders will be processed within 1-3 business days of being placed. Orders are processed as follows:

  • Orders placed before 9am EST will ship the same day.
  • Orders placed after 9am EST will ship the next day.
  • Orders placed after 9am EST on Fridays and anytime on weekends will ship the following Monday.
  • Orders received on 9am will ship the following business day.

All domestic orders over $200 are shipped for free via FedEx ground or for a flat rate of $25.00 via FedEx 2-Day. Learn more about shipping times here.


Returns must be received within 14 days of delivery. Click here to begin a return.

End of Decade Sale, Last Call Sale items, 1/1 Collection items, and Auction items are Final Sale.

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Customer Reviews
5.0 Based on 3 Reviews
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Nicholas J.
United States United States
I recommend this product
  • How does this product fit? Too SmallA Little SmallTrue to SizeA Little BigToo Big
  • How old are you? 51-60
  • How would you describe the fit? Perfect
  • What size do you normally wear? 36
  • What size did you order? 36
Great fit and feel

Lost some weight recently and needed a slimmer fit... these work great. Can’t say enough good things about the folks a Raliegh Denim... great quality, style and service!

Gregory B.
United States United States
I recommend this product
  • How does this product fit? Too SmallA Little SmallTrue to SizeA Little BigToo Big
  • How old are you? 31-40
  • How would you describe the fit? Rather snug but breaking in
  • What size do you normally wear? 32
  • What size did you order? 31
The perfect reward for my COVID detox

After a libatious COVID season, my normally roomy 32 Martin Stretchs were starting to feel tight. I decided to detox for a few months and use the money I saved on some raw selvage. The diet went so well that I found myself fitting into an old pair of 31 Jones; I figured that was my cue to invest in some jeans. This is the most I've ever spent on a pair of pants and it was 100% worth it. I've been buying Raleigh denim for over 5 years because they are truly works of art; this black cone denim is the epitome of that philosophy. Best of all, I ordered size 31 and after a few days of "uncomfortable snugness" they are the perfect blend of crispy and comfortable! Rest assured, I will lovingly decimate these jeans, one stylish day at a time. Thank you for such reliable, stunningly beautiful clothing!

Jeff S.
United States United States
I recommend this product
  • How does this product fit? Too SmallA Little SmallTrue to SizeA Little BigToo Big
  • How old are you? 31-40
  • How would you describe the fit? snug but relaxing with use.
  • What size do you normally wear? 32-33 waist
  • What size did you order? 32
Probably sold out already but if not...

These are awesome. The fit is prefect and totally in line with other RDW martin fit pants, so no funny business with these. I'm a true 6ft, very active life, weigh 185 lbs, got the 32s, and these fit snug at first with the expectation of wearing-in after several months of use. Or at least, that is what happened with my raw blues from several years ago. Also, as you probably know Cone Mills is toast and all that is left is what you'll find here on RDW. Get'm while you can own a piece of Americana for years to come. The fabric is unique for sure. The black/natural weave yields a deep, dark grey in my opinion, which makes them distinct from the over-dyed or double black demin that are on the market. The black dye does not "chip" or bleed onto your hands the way the raw blues do, so that's a plus (maybe? I always liked having blue hands). These come with the usual RDW sublime details; selvedge edge 5th pocket, black stitching, black metal trim, and red stitch along the waist and cuff. Beautiful.